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PortStone is very easy to install, especially when compared to
ceramic tile or regular brick pavers. A good installation job begins with the proper handling
of the paver sheets. Care should be taken to not put excessive force on the corners.
This material is very strong and durable once installed, but the bricks can be cracked fairly
easily if not handled properly. NOTE: Cracked bricks do not effect the durability or
longevity of a PortStone floor. Many times a cracked brick can still be laid so that the crack
either doesn't show at all, or just adds more brick-like character to the floor. After all, many
"real" bricks are cracked and have corners missing or chipped off. Just be sure to keep any
grit or foreign material out of any cracks and the cracks should close up nicely when the
paver sheet is laid. If there is any question whether or not a cracked brick should be laid,
simply cut it out of the sheet, lay the paver sheet in place and then cut a single brick from
another sheet to replace the cracked one. Then just use the paver sheet that you just remove a
single brick from to use for cut pieces that you will need around the edges and such.
PortStone is laid onto a bed of thin-set mortar just as you would
do with ceramic tile. It is then grouted-in with any type of sanded grout that you would like to
use. For a regular brick mortar look, we strongly suggest using a natural grey Saltillo grout. We
carry one that works extremely well with PortStone. The entire floor is then sealed. In most
cases, PortStone can be sealed the day after it is grouted, unlike regular brick pavers that have
to cure for 28 days or more to allow the moisture to escape before sealing. Just make sure that the
grout has properly cured before sealing.
PortStone Pavers are very easy to install especially when compared
to ceramic tile or regular brick pavers. For proper adhesion to the subfloor, any paint (as seen
below along the base boards), dirt or other debris must be removed prior to
installation.
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| Shown above is a PORTSTONE PAVER SHEET in the Herringbone
pattern. It is shown in a typical starting position beginning in a corner and against the wall. The
floor will be cleaned and then a bed of thin-set mortar will be applied using a 1/4" X 1/4" notched
trowel. The section above is shown without the thin-set mortar to show the shape of the sheet more
clearly. Notice the cut-outs made into the sheet so that all sheets key into each other. This makes
alignment of even complex patterns quick and easy. |
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This is a bird's eye view of a doorway with PortStone laid up to
it. |
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Thin-set mortar is spread using a 1/4" x 1 /4" notched trowel, making
sure to have good coverage over the subfloor. |
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Shown here, a full sheet of PortStone Pavers is held temporarily in
place above the thin-set to get a measurement for the cut on the brick that is overhanging the
threshold. |
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CUTTING PORTSTONE IS AS EASY AS 1,
2, 3!
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Step #1. Using a sharp utility knife, score the surface of the
PortStone Paver exactly where you want the cut made. Even slightly rounded and wavy cuts can be
made this way.
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Step #2. Snap the brick along the line you just scored. Many times
the break can be made using your hands as shown here. Or you can place the brick on a piece of board
with the scored mark directly over the edge of the board and while holding the brick firmly against the
board with one hand, apply downward pressure on the brick with the other hand. PortStone will snap
along the scored line. |
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Step
#3. Cut the mesh reinforcement backing and you've got your cut!
Cutting regular brick can be a time consuming task sometimes taking several minutes for each cut.
However, PortStone Pavers can be cut right where you are in only a few short
seconds. |
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After the cut is made, the sheet is then placed onto the
thin-set using the "keys" and cutouts as a guide to help automatically position the sheet. Proper sheet
placement is achieved by observing the distance between the sheet being placed and those already in
place. Simply slide the sheet to the left or right, forward or back to adjust the
placement. |
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Using a smooth
faced rubber grouting float or the proper type of squeegee, work the grout firmly into the joints by moving the float diagonally to the
joints. This helps push the grout into the joints and under the edges of the bricks without pulling
it right back out again.
Use any type of
sanded grout. For a more realistic "brick mortar" appearance, we generally recommend using natural
gray saltillo grout.
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Try to remove as
much excess grout as you can with the float. The more grout removed with the float, the easier and
faster the next cleaning steps will be.
After grouting an area of 60 - 80 square feet, using a
damp sponge, work in circular motions to remove additional excess surface grout. Be careful
not pull the grout out of the joints. Don't expect to remove all of the excess grout at
this point.
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Next, allow the
grout to stiffen in the joints and go back over the floor with a damp sponge, this time try to wipe the
bricks without touching the joints. This step may need to be repeated. There will usually be some
residual haze left when the brick dries, however, generally speaking if the floor looks good when it is
wet, it will look good when sealed. Take care not to remove too much grout out of the
joints when cleaning. Typically speaking, the surface of the grout should be no more than about
1/16th" below the surface of the brick. |
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This is floor has been grouted and cleaned, but not sealed.
The dull color is actually grout haze on the dry bricks. If wiped with a damp sponge, the haze
will temporarily go away, but it will come back once the brick is dry again. When cleaning the
brick, keep in mind that if the floor looks good to you when it is wet, it is probably as clean
as you reasonably need it to be at this point. Just make sure that it is only haze and not actual
grout left on the bricks. When the floor is sealed, this haze will go away permanently. After the
grout is completely dry, usually the next day, sweep and vacuum the floor thoroughly to remove
any remaining sand and grit. |
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This is the difference the sealer makes. The haze has
completely disappeared and the full color and beauty of the floor is brought back to life. The
brick and the grout will both darken considerably when the sealer is first applied. It will then
gradually lighten somewhat as the sealer cures, but will still hold the proper depth of color
after it has cured. PortStone
Paver Sealer RTU is ready to use and should not be
diluted before use.
Roll the sealer on with a 3/4" nap paint roller.
It is a good idea to "cut-in" around the walls and cabinets with a
brush. |
| NOTE: PORTSTONE RTU PAVER SEALER as well as all other solvent based sealers are
flammable. Be sure to have adequate ventilation and extinguish all pilot lights and turn off any source
of ignition before starting to seal. DO NOT SMOKE!
We recommend the use of a respirator with filters
approved for use when applying lacquer. |
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Once the
PortStone Paver Sealer has dried (usually within 60 to 90
minutes), apply 2 to 4 coats of Focus Floor Finish. This can be applied with a
rayon mop, sponge mop, or painting pad (as shown at left). This typically dries within 20 to 25 minutes
between coats. Focus Floor Finish is a water based product and will appear milky white at
first but will dry to a clear gloss. For a higher gloss, just add more coats. If more than 4 coats are
desired, allow 2 days before adding additional coats. |
